Costa Rica, Centroamericano Juanilama Co-Ferment
Costa Rica, Centroamericano Juanilama Co-Ferment
Tasting Notes:
Rooibos Tea
Mango
Mandarin Orange
Farm: Aquiares Estate
Region: Turrialba, Cartago Province
Processing: Anaerobic Washed with Co-Fermentation
Variety: Centroamericano (hybrid of Sudan Rume and Sarchimor)
Altitude:1200-1400m
Description:
Each year we buy multiple processing methods of Centroamericano from Aquiares Estate in Turrialba, Costa Rica. It started out with their three core processing methods - washed, red honey, natural - but in recent seasons we’ve started adding more experimental processes as well. Diego Robelo and the processing team are pushing boundaries with their fermentations, and innovating new methods using locally-sourced inputs. This year, we’re showcasing what they’re calling their “Tea Process”.
To diversify their production to rely less on coffee alone, Aquiares began planting medicinal herbs in 2021. They’ve since planted 2 hectares of oregano, eucalyptus, and juanilama, all of which contain essential oils with applications in health, skincare, and wellness products. Like other plants in the verbena family, juanilama (also called Lippia Alba) presents a strong citrus and mint aroma. The coffee processing team at Aquiares was so fascinated with this herb, they decided to experiment and introduce it to their fermentations.
Consistent with their overall processing ethos, they tried to introduce the juanilama to the fermentation tank in such a way that it would not excessively disrupt the coffee’s natural flavour profile. To achieve this, they decided to make a tea with the herb, steeping 9kg of juanilama overnight. They then added a 5% sugar solution and Mosto (a microbial brew obtained from fermenting coffee cherries) and left the microbial culture to feed on the sugars for 3 days. They then inoculated their fermentation tanks with the resulting culture, mixing it with depulped coffee seeds and water. After just one day, the aroma in the tank was described as “a rich alcoholic but also citric smell that reminded us of a tequila shot with lime”. The coffee was then thoroughly washed and dried on patios for 16 days, and then dried in mechanical “guardiolas” for an additional day. We don’t detect any booziness in the cup though– the result of this co-fermentation experiment was surprisingly lush and fruit-forward.
A citrusy acidity was complimented by a juicy body (we thought of fresh mango) and a lingering, slightly floral finish. Not knowing what juanilama was, I was shocked to learn that the herb itself tastes like mint, because none of that was coming through in the cup. The addition of the tea culture to the fermentation tanks didn’t paint a carbon copy of juanilama’s flavour onto the coffee. Instead, it led to a unique flavour profile distinct from the ingredients that were added.